Chosen Solution
After all of the helpful info on this site I downloaded the service manual, printed it up and worked through all the steps. Got weird values when testing per the manual but didn’t get error indicator on control board so I dug a little deeper into the ridiculous latch/switch. I knew there is a magnet on the lid so there had to be a reed switch, using a magnifier I found it and saw it was cracked. It’s tiny. Not sure if it’s NO or NC or if there are polarity considerations etc… so I’ll probably just buy a new switch. But if anyone has any experience replacing the reed switch I’d love to hear it. Thanks to all who contribute here!
Hi, The tech sheet for the washer shows that the lid switch is a N.O. contact i.e. closes when operated. (see p.22 for the wiring diagram). Polarity shouldn’t be an issue if there is a magnet to operate it. Like most metals, the moving contact in the switch will be attracted to the bar magnet when it is close enough to influence it and makes a connection with the other contact, closing the circuit. Finding the correct replacement is one thing, the other is replacing it. Once you remove the reed switch, you can measure its dimensions and then the datasheets associated with each reed switch will give the specifications which should help to find a compatible replacement that will fit. I’ve never replaced one in a washer so I’m sorry I can’t help you with that.
In order to test the switch, get your multimeter out and set to ohms or continuity. Your going to test across the switch with nothing activating it FIRST, then ACTIVATED. All you need to see is the switch change states then you will both know if it’s NO/NC and if the switch works. NO = OL to Ohms (or beep) NC = ohms (or beep) to OL
